Showing posts with label MONSTER BARN TUBE WORK. Show all posts
Showing posts with label MONSTER BARN TUBE WORK. Show all posts
9.23.2011
5.17.2009
Go Fast Jeep
I originally started this project as a go-fast dune jeep, but last summer Tim Young saw it in the barn and fell in love with it. I moved the engine forward to make it more suited for rock crawling and added shock hoops for 14 inch coil overs. I dropped it off at his house in Mesa last week.I can't wait to see what he does with it.
5.04.2009
Trying to finish up the Go Fast Jeep
Saturday Amy's sister came up for the day, so it was Monster Barn day for me! I started the day by working on the firewall and floor on the Go-Fast Jeep. I was into it about 20 min. when I got reassigned to give horse rides to all the cousins. After that, an old friend came over to shoot the breeze so I shifted gears and cleaned the barn some while bench racing. Finally, around 1:00 I got back on track and got something done.
The fire wall and floor are one piece, or shall I say several pieces welded together and formed into one piece. To do this first, you cut the individual pieces reducing the gaps as much as possible. Next, the pieces are tack welded together-middle, then the ends. Following that continue tacking in between each existing tack until the entire section is tacked. When you are done it will look a little messy but will clean up.
After an eternity of tack welding you can start cleaning the weld up. I start with a grinding disk on my 4 1/2 inch angle grinder. Do not work in one spot, you need to move the grinder from one end of the seam to the other. If there are high spots, you can hit the high spots a little, but don't take them down past the surrounding weld.
Once I'm getting close I switch to a flap style sanding disk to finish it off. Tight corners require more imagination, and a combination of a 90 degree high speed with sanding disks, and round grinding stones.
Take your time and it will turn out much better!
After the firewall was finished, I fabricated the front push bar or stinger. Then moved on to finish the front shock hoops.
The X brace on the front shock hoops is reminesent of the X brace on the front of the chassis of the 427 Cobra that I am slowly, and I mean slowly, building from scratch.
The fire wall and floor are one piece, or shall I say several pieces welded together and formed into one piece. To do this first, you cut the individual pieces reducing the gaps as much as possible. Next, the pieces are tack welded together-middle, then the ends. Following that continue tacking in between each existing tack until the entire section is tacked. When you are done it will look a little messy but will clean up.
After an eternity of tack welding you can start cleaning the weld up. I start with a grinding disk on my 4 1/2 inch angle grinder. Do not work in one spot, you need to move the grinder from one end of the seam to the other. If there are high spots, you can hit the high spots a little, but don't take them down past the surrounding weld.
Once I'm getting close I switch to a flap style sanding disk to finish it off. Tight corners require more imagination, and a combination of a 90 degree high speed with sanding disks, and round grinding stones.
Take your time and it will turn out much better!
After the firewall was finished, I fabricated the front push bar or stinger. Then moved on to finish the front shock hoops.
The X brace on the front shock hoops is reminesent of the X brace on the front of the chassis of the 427 Cobra that I am slowly, and I mean slowly, building from scratch.
4.27.2009
Chopped Cherokee
One day a friend called me up and said he had a Cherokee that he wanted to chop the top on, but he didn't want the same ol thing. I cut and pasted together some photos of what I thought a chopped Cherokee should look like, emailed him a copy, and he loved it. A few weeks later it was done.
I chopped the top at the body line in the back, and welded in a section of 2X4 tubing along the sheet metal. I knew if I just used body filler to smooth it out, it would most likely crack on the first trip. So I then spent like six hours blending it with the sheet metal without using body filler.
Last time John took it out, he ripped the steering box completely off the frame about a quarter of a mile into the trail! We wrapped a chain around the frame and steering box to limp it back to the trailer. So now, it's back at the barn to get the steering beefed up. Next I've got to convince him to get some 37" Irocks, or maybe 40" swampers's on Dana 60's front and rear, and full hydro steering.
I chopped the top at the body line in the back, and welded in a section of 2X4 tubing along the sheet metal. I knew if I just used body filler to smooth it out, it would most likely crack on the first trip. So I then spent like six hours blending it with the sheet metal without using body filler.
Last time John took it out, he ripped the steering box completely off the frame about a quarter of a mile into the trail! We wrapped a chain around the frame and steering box to limp it back to the trailer. So now, it's back at the barn to get the steering beefed up. Next I've got to convince him to get some 37" Irocks, or maybe 40" swampers's on Dana 60's front and rear, and full hydro steering. One of these days I've got to try one of these Cherokees. I mean you buy one for $1000, put $1200 in tires, $1500 in suspension, and maybe $1500 in axles, that's $5200. You then go beat it to death for a couple of years. Then go out and buy another Cherokee for $1000, and transfer over all the parts, and go beat on it some more!
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